One of the things I love about traveling is doing the research, putting together an itinerary, and then actually experiencing it. Those moments when it’s all coming together… you’ve read about it and saw pictures, now you’re there and taking it all in. However, if travel isn’t your full-time gig, it can be difficult to plan everything, especially for a larger group. Group travel is a whole other beast and being responsible for planning and leading the group can be a bit stressful. With that said, I’ve come to appreciate guided tours with built-in “free time” that empower me to be creative with some of the trip, and just lean in and enjoy the rest.
This past June I led a group of nine through Paris, then south to Provence, thoroughly enjoying all that had been planned for us, along with the bit of time I got to be creative with. Initially I wasn’t as excited about Paris, simply because it's such a big city. However, we ended up with nearly a full day of “free time” I could get creative with. Scouring Google maps for notable stops that weren’t part of our guided tour, I developed a walking tour we would begin directly after our visit to the second floor of the Eiffel Tower. Yes, visiting the Eiffel Tower is a must. The views are incredible, and the structure itself is a marvel to behold. Luckily, we had a breezy day, and the summer heat wasn’t yet in full force. So after the climb up and the elevator ride down, we set out to explore on foot.
From the Eiffel Tower we headed to the Luxembourg Gardens, with the intent of finding some authentic food along the way. We popped into a boulangerie, or bakery where bread is made on site, and picked up some yummy musts, with several of us trying the Croque Monsieur. Think best grilled ham and cheese you’ll ever have, featuring the creamiest cheeses, not just within but on top of the sandwich, along with béchamel sauce that just brings it to a whole other level. I ate a whole sandwich by myself and didn’t feel guilty. Eventually we arrived at the Luxembourg Gardens, walking through and discovering the various statues, the Medici Fountain, the Luxembourg Palace and enjoyed people watching by the pond.
After the Gardens, we made our way to several notable churches, first visiting The Church of Saint-Sulpice, the third largest church in Paris. The enormity of this church, along with the beautiful stained glass, numerous sculptures, amazing woodwork, and notable paintings made it awe inspiring. After walking through the church, it called you to sit for a minute before leaving, take a minute to soak it all in. Our next treat was the antique market just outside Saint Sulpice, surrounding the fountain. Walking through the market made you feel like a local, but also made you wish you had more spending money and room in your luggage.
Alas, we had more ground to cover, so we made our way to the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Pres, the oldest church in Paris. If interested, I highly recommend reading up on the history of this church, as initially there was also an abbey, and both the abbey and basilica shaped the surrounding neighborhood. This church also had stunning sculptures and stained glass, but what really stood out was the vivid paintings and engravings adorning the walls and ceilings, bright blues, gold, shades of green and mauve.
Our group was getting tired, but there was just one more church I wanted to squeeze in, so on we went to the Church of Saint-Severin. Our timing was impeccable, as in a small chapel off the rear of the church, a man was playing a guitar and the acoustics throughout the chapel and greater church were magical. The music perfectly set the mood for strolling through the church and admiring the diverse array of stained-glass windows. Some were traditional, illustrating scenes from the Life of the Saints or the Gospel, others were more contemporary and very colorful. We did move on and tour Notre Dame, and it was so, so packed. It was amazing, but it’s just hard to enjoy it as we did the beforementioned churches, considering the number of people. If you find yourself in Paris, yes, visit the touristy spots, but start with them, and start early to avoid the crowds. You’ll be able to enjoy them more. Then, meander around the city and see what else you might discover or experience.
Being on foot with a flexible agenda, in a big city like Paris, enables you to notice more. Throughout our time in Paris, I enjoyed seeing so many people out and about with their dogs. Dogs varied in size from very small, to large with very full coats. They were with people working at the antique market and with those enjoying the market. Some were leading their owners, others were being dragged along by their owners. Some relaxed on benches, as their owners brought them more water.
Another thing to notice while on foot is the architecture, from the beautifully adorned doors to the oddly shaped buildings. Throughout my travels, I’ve always enjoyed the attention to detail that's put into beautifying various structures, all the way down to the hinges on a door or window. Some cities have unique door handles and knockers. It’s not always about the big things, but the little things you can notice when you slow down and let yourself get lost in a neighborhood. Sometimes you notice the nuances of daily life in a particular neighborhood, or rather, the annoyances of having tourists observing you in your natural habitat.
After a whirlwind, go-go-go time in Paris, we headed south to the Provence region. We toured the Papal Palace in Avignon, ate cassoulet in Carcassonne, and explored the Roman Cryptoportiques of Arles. Provence was a complete change of pace and scenery. The day that most took me by surprise began in Arles and ended swimming in the Gard River flowing beneath the Pont du Gard. First off, Arles is a beautiful coastal city that was once the provincial capital of ancient Rome. Besides exploring the Cryptoportiques, we also toured a Roman-era colosseum and ancient theater, before visiting a local market to purchase food for a picnic along the Gard River. Next up was an afternoon picnicking, relaxing, swimming and learning about the Pont du Gard. This ancient bridge was the highest in the Roman empire and was built around 19 BC as part of a system of channels transporting water from Uzès to Nîmes. While visiting ancient cathedrals, I often marvel at the grandeur and height of the vaulted ceilings, wondering how, way back when, they were able to construct, sculpt and paint such an amazing structure. Wading in the river, I look up at the bridge in awe, imagining the pure muscle and engineering ingenuity that went into creating such a structure. The gravity of where I was and what I was experiencing brought me to begin spinning in the water, like a little girl, full of joy and gratitude, being so in the moment. It’s moments like this that change you. These moments are why I travel.
During this trip, we covered so much ground, doing and seeing so much more than I’ve mentioned here. The first part of the trip in Paris was truly exhausting, because we did so much and it was so hot. However, we were fortunate regarding all we got to see. With the Olympics being in Paris last year, many sites were inaccessible for quite some time. Also, Notre Dame just reopened this past December, after being closed for over 5 years. Further, throughout the summer there have been reports of partial closures of the Eiffel Tower due to extreme heat. So, although it was hot while we were there, it only got hotter! Luckily, we had come prepared with broken-in shoes and plenty of Liquid IV. Paris before Provence was strategic on the tour company’s part. We had survived the whirlwind; we were ready for a slower pace.
There is so much more I could say and share, but I hope the pictures scattered throughout the article communicate what my words cannot.